Steering details

Issue with the steering: When all assembled, after everything is aligned, I need to be able to index the steering shaft to the steering rack to make the steering wheel straight when the car is going straight. The steering shaft fits so tight between the support bearing and the rack that its impossible to remove and index the splined adapter. I read several possible fixes on the F5 forum and ended up using a combination. First I moved the support bearing to the inside of the footbox. This gained about 1/8″ of room. However, it did require trimming the bearing retainer to fit.

This is the modified retainer compared to the original. Both must be trimmed.

The bearing now installed inside the footbox.

…and the view from the inside and why I had to trim it.

Still not enough to pull the splined adapter and re-index. However, another tip from the forum said it requires less space to pull the shaft from the adapter, so I pulled 2 set screws and voila!

End result is I can now remove 2 set screws, push the steering shaft up into the bearing out of the way and then remove and re-index the splined adapter.

Lots of work for something I’ll only have to do one time, but if I didnt do it, I’d most likely have to drive the car with an off-center steering wheel. And that would not make me happy.

Onward!

Comments / axle vent

Hi Friends!

First, my Blog Guru (brother) is looking into letting you guys post some comments. The problem is with spam and internet robots taking over. Might have to do a login which could be too much trouble for you. Still looking into it.

Lots done this week!

First, the axle vent. My Moser axle comes with a 1/4 NPT vent hole and a brass hose fitting. F5 has you simply running a hose up high and securing it so water doesnt get in.  Gotta be better, so I ordered this Ford axle vent that fits certain 86-14 Mustangs with the 8.8 axle. PN 4R3Z4022AA. Problem: the vent has a 7/16-20 thread, or a -4AN. So I also got this fitting from Earls, PN 916144. Install is easy-peesy and much better than a hose snaking all over the place.

Details, details…

Once again, it feels like I’m out there for hours and hours and not much gets done. Some of this work is slow going.. Also, while striving for perfection, my frustration levels rise when it doesn’t come out exactly right.

So I finally got the front & rear brake crossover lines done. The front one I did in the previous post had a wonky bend in it, and it bugged me to no end for several days. So I cut it off and remade the end with a line splice. Much nicer now. The rear line went very easily and is clamped to the underside of the triangle brace.

Working with the front brake lines, i bent and secured the line from the master cylinder to the front left brake. This is where the T is that splits the brake pressure off to both sides. Also installed the hoses for the brake and clutch reservoirs and got them clamped off. You can see the hard line in the top of this pic.

Also started bending up some of the 3/8 fuel lines. Got the pressure line from the filter to the engine compartment and ran the return from the engine compartment back to the end of the frame.

Of course, the ends in the engine compartment sticking up in the air are not final. I’ll get those cut to length after I get the engine and check clearances and access. These will be attached to stainless flex hoses going to the fuel injection.

So it seems like not much has been done, but I probably have something like 10 hours in bending and flaring brake and fuel lines, with still more to go. Slow, not very glamorous work, but it still has to be done.

Found out this weekend that it will take 3 weeks for Ford to build my engine after I order it, then maybe another week to deliver. I’ll be traveling for work extensively in April, so I’ll have to wait to order it. If you’re interested, here’s a teaser… Ford 427W

See yall later… and once again, thanks for following.

Devil’s in the Details…

Hi everyone!!

Been doing some things that aren’t very glamorous and take a good bit of time. Got my steering shaft installed…

…and spent about 4 hours installing a sound and heat barrier in the passenger footwell and floor. This will make the car have a more solid sound and protect the passengers feet from the exhaust headers, which will only about 8″ away.

Installed the flexible brake lines at all 4 wheels,

and today installed the brake line connecting the 2 front brakes.

Like I said, not a lot done but all these details take time.

I’m still a happy man…

Peek at the Gallery!

By the way, at the top of your screen on this page are 2 links, Home & Gallery. If you click on Gallery, it shows the thumbnails of all the pictures I’ve posted in order. Click on a picture and you’ll see it a bit larger. Click the crossed arrows and it goes full size. You may then scroll through with right and left arrows and see a lot more detail in the pictures.

See ya!

I got the aluminum back!

Finally! It took a month and I finally got my aluminum sheets back. All a nice grey with just a little bit of texture. Good stuff.

First thing I did was install the front suspension panels (also called ‘F’ panels) and built the passenger footbox. You’ll notice some of the panels are black… I painted these as once the body is on, these will not be seen.

Then I commenced to building the front suspension. I installed the upper control arms, Koni coil over shocks and the wheel bearing / spindles. I replaced the stock ball joints with hi performance parts from Howe Racing.

Then I built up the front 12.8″ Wilwood brakes. The calipers centered up very nicely.

Of course, this required a front wheel-to-brake interference check.

Is it looking like a car yet? Can ya start to see what I see?

By then it was getting cold and I dont have any heat in the garage. I’ll have to fix that by next winter. Put away the tools, cleaned up and put BOSS 427 to bed.

This is really starting to move now, considering I’m working on my own and still have to keep the job happy…

Thanks for visiting.

Welcome to Spring!

Been on vacation this last week, so haven’t gotten much done. Soon as I got home, tho… time to get to work.

First off, welcome to the first day of Spring! Trinket certainly enjoyed the day… and no, she’s not dead. She loves to sleep in the warm sunshine.

Spent some serious time getting the brake pedal rigging accomplished. The single pedal actuates 2 master cylinders, one for front and one for rear brakes. They are different sizes, so the brake system has a method for setting the bias on the brakes… which one applies harder or slower so all tires tend to lock at the same time. Anyways, my master cylinders were bottomed out before any adjustments could be made, keeping everything under tension and not acting right at all. I cut 3/8″ off the end of each master cylinder and it all fell into place. Set the bias in the center for now (that will be adjusted when I start driving) and got the pistons in the master cylinders set right where they should be. The pedal has about 1/16″ of play. Perfect.

Next was the clutch pedal. It was sitting about 1.5″ higher than the brake pedal with the master cylinder screwed all the way in… no good. So guess what I did… yep! Cut about 3/8″ off the end of that master cylinder, too. The clutch pedal is now easily adjustable to the brake pedal height and was able to set the clutch safety switch. Did have to grind a bit on the pedal to clear some structure, but this is a known item on these cars. Pedals are good!

Decided to start installing and fastening down some aluminum. If you recall some earlier pictures, the aluminum interior was all installed, by only by a few screws and not precisely. I installed some of the footboxes, but have to wait on my powdercoater for the other pieces… still. However, I was able to fit, trim, drill and install the passenger and driver floors and begin building the cockpit. There’s a lot of pieces that all have to overlap just right and fit together, then they all get drilled, silicone applied and riveted together.

Probably spent about 6 hours on the aluminum today. The back wall is still just temporarily installed because there’s some trunk aluminum that has to go in first. But the back wall is fitted and drilled, just held in place with clecos (spring loaded pins used to hold sheetmetal together during assembly).

Is it starting to look like a car yet?

more scattered work

I’m going to start updating this page once per week.

This week, I got a call from the powdercoater. He said the grey hammer powder I wanted was no longer available and couldn’t get any more. Stopped in and picked out a regular grey. Also picked up my steel parts that had been done in gloss black.

Before & After:

Since I got those back, I was able to start building the pedal box. This holds the master cylinders for the brakes and clutch as well as a place to hang the pedals.  I’m using a Forte hydraulic clutch system instead of the stock cable and also upgraded the throttle pedal to a Russ Thompson unit. The pedal box, pedals and all master cylinders are from Wilwood, as are the brakes at the wheels.

Looks like a real Flintstone car, doesn’t it.

Also went ahead and installed the front lower control arms. I upgraded all the ball joints to Howe Racing parts, and they are so smooth. Also rebuildable and very close tolerance. Just real nice parts. Using Energy Suspension polyurethane boots that should last almost forever.

Wont be doing much next week. Hopefully will get my aluminum done soon so I can really get to it.

I received the last of my backordered parts this week, last item being the wiring harness from Ron Francis. Can’t wait to get my hands into that and start doing some modifications.

 

Busy day, but not much done.

Spent a cold day out in the garage today, working on The Boss. First up was installing a front battery tray. This moves the battery from a high and difficult access in the trunk to low and easy in the engine compartment. This kit is made by Breeze and is just as nice as the other Breeze stuff I’ve bought. All stainless and fit better than they said it should.

Also fitted one of the Breeze roll bars that I got and compared to the Factory 5 roll bar. The Breeze is Stainless where the F5 is Powder coated black. The Breeze is also shorter, laid back some and uses thicker material. I think I will be staying with the Stainless bars and get them polished up. They will look great with the polished stainless side pipes I’ll be using.

Next up was to get some more work done on the fuel system. I have to manufacture every hose and hard line as I’m doing something different from stock. Surprised? Didn’t think so. I mounted the fuel filter under the passenger seat for easy access (maintenance). It was also the only place I could find that had a large enough flat and strong surface to handle the mounts.  I tucked in as tight as I could to the frame rail for protection. Then made a stainless 3/8 fuel hose to run from the fuel pickup to the filter. These hoses take some time to make and every one has to be pressure tested before I can install it.

Also installed the larger fuel tank vent (seen in the pic above) and routed the hose for that. [edit: Realized after posting that I had the fuel pressure hose to the filter attached to the wrong port on the fuel pickup… I had attached to the return.  All fixed now…]

That’s about it for today in the shop. Got on the computer and ordered my fuel and brake lines, a bunch of aircraft Adel clamps for the fuel and vent hoses and some tools to make my own brake and fuel lines.

Still waiting for those aluminum panels to get powder coated… that is holding me up so much…

Disappointment, but not all bad!

Stopped at the powdercoater today. He’s had my parts for a week (30 steel pieces and 15 aluminum panels) and hasn’t touched them. Said he was going to have someone do the steel gloss black today and that “the boss” has my grey hammered powder on order. Guess I’ll wait another week…

In other news, more parts showed up today! Breeze sent me 2 boxes and still expecting a third. Stainless steel roll bars (2), fittings and stainless lines for my power steering rack, relocated stainless battery box (gets the battery out of the difficult-to-access trunk and into the nose of the car). Tomorrow expecting a large bore fuel tank vent and a storage compartment for the rear cockpit wall. Still expecting parts from Howe Racing, Russ’s Machine Shop and Mike Forte Performance Parts. 😉

Few things have happened

I have fixed a small coolant leak at the heater select valve, and replaced the power steering pump with a unit that is setup and dyno’d for flow and pressure to match the Fox Mustang steering rack. Also has a reservoir mounted right to the side of the pump for excellent fluid supply.

威而鋼的副作用

我治療背痛已經有20年了,我見過許多因為服用高劑量威而鋼後出現肌肉酸痛需要到醫院接受治療的陽痿患者,各種年齡和不同嚴重程度。

  • 壯陽藥的選擇技巧

樂威壯的效果

即使兩次服用的劑量合起來不超過20mg的安全劑量,大部分陽痿患者每次服用 樂威壯都會想到服用10毫克效果夠不夠?需不需要增加到20毫克?吃最大劑量會不會損害人體健康?