Boss 427

Found a local young man who loves to weld. Bruce from Biggdaddy Steelworks came over to the BOSS427 Garage and welded up my Breeze stainless roll bars for me. They look great, and will be even better when they are all polished up. Didn’t take long, didn’t cost much and he did a great job. Look him up if you need some welding done.

While he was doing that, I couldn’t work on the car so I turned to my left and started assembling some of the components to my engine. Installed the Edelbrock AirGap RPM manifold, Pertronix Ignitor III distributor, Canton billet thermostat housing. Started the test fit on the Gas-N Stainless headers, but that’s going to require a bit of hole stretching.

Back at it tomorrow…

This electric work sure does proceed slowly. Or maybe it’s because I only get about 3 hour per day to work on the Boss.  Just dont seem to be getting a lot done.

I replaced all of the running & taillight bulbs with LED’s. I usually use www.superbrightleds for most everything, including the led’s in my garage and house. But I had heard great things about these JDM Astar leds. I checked out some research and they certainly got great reviews, and for about 1/2 the price of the best superbrights. I’m here to say I am not disappointed. Also required changing the turn signal and hazard flashers from the old style mechanical units to new, updated electronic EF32RL’s from Amazon.

I temp wired all 6 lights on the roadster, hooked up the ignition, headlight and turn signal switches and applied power using a battery charger. All the functions work well and my mods are working great. (PS -> That’s the first time electric power has been applied to The Boss!)

With all this electrical work, I need a place to run the wiring to. Time to temp install some switches. I had already bought a blank dash from Factory 5 so I could design my own. Did some layout work…

…and drilled for my switches. There’s spots for seat heaters, footbox fans, headlights, high beams, fog lights, windshield wipers, keyless ignition, heater fan, turn signals, hazards, eng fan over ride, etc. I temp installed the switches just to have a place to start running wiring to.

The gauges I have marked out are going to look awesome. A tribute to the original Cobras, but completely modernized and custom. It’s requiring about a month to have them custom made by Speedhut.

The rest of the plan for the dash is to test fit everything, then remove it all and cover it. The dash will have 1/8″ foam covered by light gray leather. This same leather will be used on the center console and the glovebox door in the rear bulkhead, and should be very close in color to the center stripe when the car is painted. I may also get custom inner door panels made… remains to be seen.

Not much else to report. Should have some more parts coming in over the next few days, so maybe I’ll set aside the electrical and work on something else for a bit. Found a local guy to come to my shop and weld my stainless roll bars, I think that will be tomorrow.

In the meantime, here’s a pic of my helper, trying to hide when I was cranking up the Boston and Led Zeppelin…

Till next time, take care of yourselves and your families, and once again… Thanks for reading.

I actually don’t have pictures for this post.

I’ve begun installing the wiring harness. Not very glorious and lots of small details to take care of. Perhaps I’ll get some pics tomorrow.

A few of the mods I’ve done or are doing. If you’re not into the electric geek stuff, this is a good time to move on. 🙂

The F5 Roadster harness comes ready to also be used in the F5 ’33 Hot Rod. As such, there’s an extra connector in the harness just for the ’33. Instead of tying it back and always having it there, I elected to open up the harness and remove the extra connector.

The next thing I did was to remove some more excess wiring. I’ll be using a GPS-based speedometer, so don’t need the normal speedo wiring that’s used from the transmission. Of course, I removed that.  The fuel injection system I’m using by FiTech controls the fuel pump without a relay. So I also pulled out the wiring that drives the fuel pump relay, leaving the direct fuel pump wires for the FiTech.

The next thing I did was to work on my mods for the exterior lights. The Roadster has 6 parking / tail lights… 2 in front, 4 in the rear. First, the fronts. I do not like turn signals that flash bright/dim/bright/dim. This is a function of the lower wattage parking light and the brighter turn signal. I am incorporating a special type of turn signal switch made by Ron Francis. It’s made to turn off the brake signal on rear lights when the turn signal is activated. I’m just using it to turn off the parking light when the TS is switched on. It will work for all 6 lights. This will make the lights flash on/off/on/off instead of bright/dim.

Now with the 4 tail lights. The stock design is 2 lights on each side, 1 is brake and 1 is turn signal. Not for me! I want all 4 to be brake lights and to have a brake light override when the turn signal is activated. Remember, the dimmer parking light is already over-ridden. So now I’m installing a trailer light controller by Reese Hitches. It takes in the brake signal and the turn signals for each side. When the brake is activated, all 4 lights will be bright. With the brake and a turn signal, the side that is signalling will be on/off/on/off, overriding both the dimmer parking light and the brighter brake light.

Clear as mud?

Oh, and since the rear tag light is tapped of the rear park lights, well, it wouldn’t be good to have my tag light turning off whenever I applied a turn signal. So I ran a new power wire for the tag light back up to the dashboard, where I will tie it in with the headlight switch.

Tomorrow I will run some new wires for interior lighting and perhaps begin to install some electric items for testing… keyless ignition (yes, I’m going pushbutton start) with security system, headlight switch, maybe install some front & rear lights so I can test my wiring mods. This also means it’s time to buy a battery and make some new battery cables.

More tomorrow and perhaps I’ll try to get some pics for ya!

So the big news of this past week is that my engine arrived!

It took Me and my friend Chip about an hour to get it uncrated and on the stand…

Few interesting items that make this a non-standard engine, never offered in any car.

It looks like this oil pan is too deep… it will hang about 1.5″ below the frame rails. Dangerous stuff and not something I’m prepared to risk. So this pan will have to go. I’ve already got a line on a new pan that will work well with this car.

My new headers and sidepipes arrived. They are all T-304 stainless made by a company called Gas-N Performance Products. The headers are not polished as it doesn’t maintain very well in the long run.

The sidepieps, however, are polished to a very high standard. Yes, they are beautiful.

Took a few big steps this week towards more upcoming work to be done.

I ordered my engine! I showed y’all a link to it before. In case you missed it, it’s a Ford crate engine, a Boss 351 bored and stroked to a 427. It should have around 450hp and 525 ft/lbs of torque, quite a beast for this little lightweight car. I ordered it from Jegs as they had the best price and free shipping.

Jegs contacted me today and said the engine was being shipped… if not today, then tomorrow. Much quicker than I expected. So I jumped on Summit and started ordering all the stuff that needs to be bolted on the engine: intake, fuel injection, gaskets, front drive accessories, clutch… a bunch of stuff. I’ll show you a lot of it as I’m building up the engine.

Ordered my stainless headers and sidepipes from Gas-N today, and will be ordering the TKO600 transmission tomorrow.

The plan is to spend the next month doing some electrical work and getting the engine ready, then about Memorial Day being able to drop in the engine and transmission. Hopefully Bwana will be here to help.

Next update soon!

I guess it’s been about 3 weeks since my last update. My apologies to those that are continuing to follow… and my thanks.

I had to do some traveling for work, but now I’m back to my regular schedule. On the few days I was home, I did manage to get some more work done on The Boss.

Last update, we installed all the trunk metal, the dropped trunk floor and the rear cockpit bulkhead. Now I’ve cut an access hole in that bulkhead and installed a secondary bulkhead as part of a kit by Breeze. The idea is that since my heater will take up all the space behind the passenger side of the dash, I need a compartment of sorts to store things. This kit creates a compartment just behind the seats. The original design is just an open access hole, but I will be making and installing a lockable door on it.

Finished trunk:

Speaking of the heater, I got the holes cut for that and it is installed on the firewall.

I installed some more Thermo-Tec; the stuff that’s giving me heat and sound insulation.. Also installed the drivers footbox inner wall, leaving the top and outer wall off for now. I still have a lot of work to do in there.

Took my wheels and tires to Absolute Style & Sound in Pasadena, MD for mounting and balancing. They use pneumatic mounting equipment that never touches the face of the wheel and 3D imaging with lasers to do balancing. Got all 4 done and out the door in an afternoon for $125. Not too shabby.

So all 4 wheels and tires are now installed. I just had to roll it out on it’s own feet and let The Boss feel the sunshine. It’s a roller!

Not a lot to report this week. Work was really busy and kept me from spending much time in the garage.

First up is my tires arrived! Nitto NT05 sizes 315/35-17 rear and 255/45-17 front. This should help me keep the Boss planted. Those rear tires are 12.5″ wide.

Started working on the heater. There’s a few things that bother me about it. Mostly that the halves mount through the firewall with simple self tapping screws threaded into plastic. Not the ticket to last a long time. So I made some strips to go inside the housing that I mounted rivnuts to. Used some high grade silicone adhesive and secured the strips in place. Now when I go to mount the heater, it will be much more secure.

The 6 slotted head screws will be button head stainless when installed. The 2 tek screws are just to help hold the strips in place while the adhesive sets.

Worked a bunch on the rear sheetmetal. Had to run the rear wiring harness and install a dropped trunk floor before I could start closing it up. The stock trunk floor is just flat. This adds a few cubic feet to be able to carry a bit more stuff. Also, over on the right, there was a small access panel to gt to the fuel line connections. Not very big, though. I cut it out and made a panel to cover it up. Nice and big access now.

All this aluminum takes time. Each piece has to be fitted, marked, removed, drilled, deburred, reinstalled then drill again into whatever it mounts to (another sheet or framework), removed, all the chips cleaned up, deburr again, then siliconed and riveted.

Installed the remainder of the trunk and rear aluminum. Once that was all done, finally got to install the rear bulkhead. What you’re looking at here is 12 pieces of aluminum, all siliconed and riveted together.

This about does it for the big aluminum pieces. I wont be working on the car this week due to some work commitments, but I’ll get at least 1 day in this coming weekend. Might start doing some electrical mods to the rear lights. Will do another update then!

Finished up the brake system, except for a few small details.

All lines are bent, secured and tight. Used the same Nicopp lines that are in the fuel system… no rust. Flares and hardware are standard 45* double flare. Time for reservoirs. Stock F5 has you using 1 reservoir to feed all the brakes. I want to do a little more for safety, so I am installing 2 reservoirs, 1 for front, 1 for rear. Then I’m doing a hydraulic clutch, so I need another for that. I like the F5 reservoirs, so got 2 more. I made a mount to hang these 3 reservoirs out of .04 aluminum and some 3/4″ angle.

Here it is test fitted and clecoed in place.

Engine compartment side

back side

Done

These are installed just in front of the drivers footbox in the engine compartment.

Just need to get some adapters and install the hoses, then the brake system is ready to be filled, leak checked and bled.

This one is short n simple. The stock fuel tank vent is just a length of hose routed to be able to vent but not allow fuel to slosh out. The vent is needed to allow air to move in and out as fuel is added and used.

First, I upgraded the vent to a larger unit to prevent issues with how fast the fuel can be pumped in. Breeze big vent. Then I routed the hose up and over to the left side of the car and built this vent filter. It will help capture any fuel vapors to keep things smelling nice. Its filled with a filter bag and some filter charcoal that I bought at an aquarium store. Then one end has a 1/2″ hose barb fitting and the other end has a bunch of 1/4″ holes drilled in it. Its only temporary mounted… that will be finalized as the rear sheetmetal is installed.

Received some small parts that allowed me to finish up the fuel system. It is now complete from the pump inside the tank to the engine compartment. I’m using all 3/8 line, pressure and return, which will be plenty for the 427 (stock Fox 5.0 Mustang is 5/8 pressure, 1/4 return). The hard lines are nickel-copper (Nicopp) so they will never rust and are easy to form. All fittings are AN and the clamps are MS. Good aviation stuff. Nothing here is premade… I did all the bending, flaring, hose assembly and routing. System has been pressure tested to 125 psi (fuel system runs at 52psi) with no leaks.

The ends in the engine compartment are waiting until the engine is installed to build and install the final hoses.